Front/passenger side is bolt that spins freely. Picture of bolts attaching skid plate to frame, 2 of 3 blots in picture. Picture top side of skid plate with mud packed in 8x 6511076AA - Rivet Nut 1x 68353836AA - Passenger Side 'fang cap' Bracket 1x 68353837AA - Driver Side 'fang cap' Bracket And, in total, you need 8x M10-1.5 x 30mm bolts (the grey ones above) and 4x M8-1. Pictures of center of skid plate with one bolt without the nut and a picture above skid plate. Is there a way to repair this without cutting an access hole in the side of the frame and welding a new bolt in? (This is something I can not do!)Īny suggestions to reduce the risk of breaking another nut free from the frame when I try to remove the bolts? I assume I have to cut the bolt to remove the skid plate with the other 5 bolts removed. I'm assuming the bolt that was welded to the inside of the frame broke loose and the bolt/nut is spinning. The first one I tried to loosen, groaned and then started to spin freely. The 6 bolts (3 on either side) that hold the skid plate to the frame. I should have a jack support the weight of the transmission/ transfer case when I remove the skid plate? As the transfer case is entirely behind the skid plate, is one jack on the transmission enough to support it?īigger problem. What is this bolt that is off center (currently with no nut, see pictures)? This bolt is currently missing a nut so it just hang there, loose. There are 2 bolts in the center that appear to go into a transmission mount in the middle of the skid plate and bolt several inches off center (to the driver's side) that go to up through the plate and has 2 rubber bushings. The skid plate has 3 bolts holding it to each side of the frame rails. There is a lot of mud caked in there and my CJ5 has a catalytic converter I was planning to replace while I've got it apart. To this I plan to drop the transmission skid plate. My next task was to drain/refill the transmission and transfer case and put a new exhaust on. I've changed engine oil, flushed and changed radiator fluid (with new thermostat and water pump) and drained/flushed/filled differentials. I've been slowly cleaning her up to get her on the road. If I run into any problems years down the road, I'll be sure to report back, but I am pretty sure they will outlast the truck.I have a '79 CJ5 I recently purchased. That said, since I have plenty on hand already I will use stainless. I can't imagine their use with steel would be any worse even on salted winter roads (on which many of us would never drive), but to be safer and avoid any potential electrolysis issues I guess it would be better to go with plain old cheap steel rivets. I just happen to have a few pounds of 3/16" stainless rivets on hand from boat work, where they offer good results with aluminum in a salt water environment. I suppose plain steel rivets could be used in place of stainless - they are certainly cheaper. When joining panels, it is proper to cut out the rusted material and join good metal to good metal, same as for welding. I was talking about stainless rivets joining mild steel panels, but I take your point. It can't possibly last as long as the factory spot welds. The rivets open up more chance of leakage and corrosion as you have opened more surface area to water penetration with every hole drilled, regardless of sealant used or not. You cannot get all impurities out of 20+ year old metal, especially since it has corroded.Įven if you get it as clean as possible, you are combining un-like metals when you rivet instead of weld. You are talking stainless on dirty steel riveting. Since spot welding is used for assembly of unibodies at the factory and rivets are essentially the same principle (only stronger), the rivets should last as long as the spot welds.I would respectfully disagree.
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